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@Tregaskis said in Housing hornets' nest:
@jegga Inland Revenue will be interested in this flip.
I find it highly unusual to hear tales from the Herald about Chinese profiting from the Auckland housing market.
@Tregaskis said in Housing hornets' nest:
@jegga Inland Revenue will be interested in this flip.
I find it highly unusual to hear tales from the Herald about Chinese profiting from the Auckland housing market.
I can't work our if you're being serious or not. This is one of a number of stories on the topic in the last 6 months or so
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@Tregaskis I know there are some of these guys that put the insulation in your walls that different councils don't approve of, so might also pay to have a chat to someone at your local council about it.
We had some shit put in our bedroom walls at our old place, it sagged, was done form the inside too, was a fun as jobs tidying that up!
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@Tregaskis I've never seen it used before so I can't really comment either way . I see on their website that they are code marked which is good and it would be far easier sealing up the holes in bricks.Our brick system is different to the Uk one though, we normally have building paper then a cavity then brick and then weep holes at the bottom of the bricks to allow moisture to escape . You mentioned you don't have building paper so presumably they mean they'd fill up the hole cavity which I'm not 100% on doing that and I think TRs suggestion of checking with your local authority first is great advice before you spend the money .
Sorry that's not a definitive answer, if it was my place and I was keeping it for 3-5 years and the ceiling and floors were already done I'd probably lean towards thermal curtains as windows particularly single glazed aluminium shed lots of heat and a ducted heating system .
Weird that insulation isn't part of schedule one, I normally insulate any external wall I expose as a matter of course . I've got an inspector coming in a day or so so I'll ask for you.
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@taniwharugby Thanks mate, one of the guys I rang to arrange for a quote (also a former foam system installer) told me the Hamilton City Council won't give consent for this system on a brick veneer house, but Bay of Plenty councils can and do (he also has a BOP licence).
That is somewhat frustrating when some councils will, and some won't.
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@taniwharugby said in Housing hornets' nest:
@Paekakboyz nah they are cheap, the 5c or whatever is right, don't even notice any spikes or increases in comsumption.
Our HRV has a vent in every room (Garage, 2 in lounge/dining) one in each bedroom and one in our wardrobe.
We have 2 fan units and you get the filter changed about every other year.
Old ground I know but we have heat pumps but still get a bit of condensation on the windows. I know ventilation systems can reduce or eliminate this but do they make the house colder at the same time? If you're reading this TR how many rooms does your two fan system service? I was looking at various systems, the one bunnings stocks seems to have good feedback and you can vent them to draw outside air. Interestingly I read on the energywise website that only ventilation systems that draw outside air comply with the ventilation standard.
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@canefan we have vents in 4 bedrooms, 1 in our wardrobe, 2 in the lounge/living area and one in the garage, think that is all...?
When we had DVS it was one unit and 3 outlets I think in the larger areas, IMO not as effective.
We haven't had any condensation since getting the HRV, and our place was a new build, fully insulated, double glazed.
Yeah ours draws the air from the roof space but has some fancy pants filter, ours has settings where it adjusts the air flow depending on the temperatures in the ceiling and house.
In winter the roof space flow is like a trickle, so you don't notice the fact the air is cold, while in summer it turns off when it gets above your set temp, and you can have it so if the house drops below a certain temp, and the air is warmer it kicks it up to warm the house (which is good on crisp winter days when the ceiling still gets upto 25+)
We also had HRV put in an extractor in our main bathroom which is a much higher quality than many you can buy, think their fan units and filters are all German.
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@taniwharugby said in Housing hornets' nest:
@canefan we have vents in 4 bedrooms, 1 in our wardrobe, 2 in the lounge/living area and one in the garage, think that is all...?
When we had DVS it was one unit and 3 outlets I think in the larger areas, IMO not as effective.
We haven't had any condensation since getting the HRV, and our place was a new build, fully insulated, double glazed.
Yeah ours draws the air from the roof space but has some fancy pants filter, ours has settings where it adjusts the air flow depending on the temperatures in the ceiling and house.
In winter the roof space flow is like a trickle, so you don't notice the fact the air is cold, while in summer it turns off when it gets above your set temp, and you can have it so if the house drops below a certain temp, and the air is warmer it kicks it up to warm the house (which is good on crisp winter days when the ceiling still gets upto 25+)
We also had HRV put in an extractor in our main bathroom which is a much higher quality than many you can buy, think their fan units and filters are all German.
So if the flow slows at night time when the air is cold, how does it stop condensation more than what our a/c units do already?... Thanks for the info, I'm loath to call HRV again because it took me years to get rid of them after deciding not to do anything last time!!
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@canefan I guess while the air s cold, it is dry and is also about pressurizing or something haha.
A lot of sparkies do ventilation systems now too, I expect the concept is the same with all of them, but the location and number of vents is important IMO, so if you know a sparky am sure they wil do it, even if you just buy the system form Bunnings.
I would recommend the HRV to anyone, obviously we don't get as cold as you, so that might be a factor too?
I do know the DVS system can have a heater attached to the ceiling unit to take the edge off the air it is sending about, as do some other units, HRV cant.
We were also told that for the ventilation system to work effectively, the house needs to be kept warm, having a freezing house and expecting a ventilation system to work effectively wont happen, so it is using it in unison with whatever heating source you have.
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@taniwharugby said in Housing hornets' nest:
@canefan I guess while the air s cold, it is dry and is also about pressurizing or something haha.
A lot of sparkies do ventilation systems now too, I expect the concept is the same with all of them, but the location and number of vents is important IMO, so if you know a sparky am sure they wil do it, even if you just buy the system form Bunnings.
I would recommend the HRV to anyone, obviously we don't get as cold as you, so that might be a factor too?
I do know the DVS system can have a heater attached to the ceiling unit to take the edge off the air it is sending about, as do some other units, HRV cant.
We were also told that for the ventilation system to work effectively, the house needs to be kept warm, having a freezing house and expecting a ventilation system to work effectively wont happen, so it is using it in unison with whatever heating source you have.
We run the a/c through the night which keeps the place at about 20deg C so that box is ticked. The only thing is the condensation, which is not that bad but it's a pain (I have a little karcher vacuum and in the Winter at worst it fills the chamber a couple of times, or I would use one small bath towel for the whole house). I read that the heat transfer or active heating thing is bollocks, it's all about the air flow
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@canefan we had a heat transfer at our old place, but you need a fireplace for those to work properly, but again, they are only transferring air in your home, so if you lounge is warm and toasty, bedrooms are damp, it is just pushing in the warm air that wont be drying it I guess?
Our only source at our place is a Heat Pump, which is at one end of the house, have toyed with the idea of getting one down the other end (our bedroom :)) but not got around to it yet, other priorities.
Before we got the HRV at our place, our huge lunge window would have condensation upto my waist, since we haven't had any at all, even in the garage where the dryer is that the wife loves to use and depending on weather, isn't always able to vent.
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I've noticed a lot of variation in the quality of heating system installation and some of the guys actually doing the work so do some homework before you spend your money. Stuff like scratched up and dented roofs , penetrations that cause leaks in cladding and cutting holes in the ceiling that hit a rafter so have to moved leaving you with a mess to patch up and paint.
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@jegga we just had our heat pump serviced and the guys that serviced it asked if we had had any leaks form it as the installers had routed the overflow pipe up an inch before going down to the external drain...fortunately this is likely only an issue on the cooling side rather than heating.
Was odd as it was installed when built, so isn't like they had any issues with where to put it, and installed by one of the supposedly better installers in Northland, that is national as well.
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@taniwharugby said in Housing hornets' nest:
@jegga we just had our heat pump serviced and the guys that serviced it asked if we had had any leaks form it as the installers had routed the overflow pipe up an inch before going down to the external drain...fortunately this is likely only an issue on the cooling side rather than heating.
Was odd as it was installed when built, so isn't like they had any issues with where to put it, and installed by one of the supposedly better installers in Northland, that is national as well.
Is this about to go into the "bloody tradies" thread?
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@jegga said in Housing hornets' nest:
I've noticed a lot of variation in the quality of heating system installation and some of the guys actually doing the work so do some homework before you spend your money. Stuff like scratched up and dented roofs , penetrations that cause leaks in cladding and cutting holes in the ceiling that hit a rafter so have to moved leaving you with a mess to patch up and paint.
Our house is plaster clad so I am very paranoid about people causing leaks from making unsealed holes. I'm not educated in what is good or bad though so who knows. I have a few tradies that I've used for some time, hopefully this helps
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@taniwharugby Does HRV adjust flow rates using temperature and humidity sensors? Energywise say these are better, seems to say straight out flow units are no good because they can potentially pump humid air in and make things worse. Bunnings have a smartvent system that runs using both types of sensors
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@canefan nah just on temp as far as I know (unless there is a humidity sensor in the LCD unit, but this is only in a single location) not humidity, but then the air is put through the filter which cleans and dries it.
There are plenty of options out there, the only thing I wish HRV did was the heater attachment, which in winter would add a few degrees to the air would be huge.
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@taniwharugby Thanks mate. The fern is soooooo much better than Google!
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@canefan said in Housing hornets' nest:
@jegga said in Housing hornets' nest:
I've noticed a lot of variation in the quality of heating system installation and some of the guys actually doing the work so do some homework before you spend your money. Stuff like scratched up and dented roofs , penetrations that cause leaks in cladding and cutting holes in the ceiling that hit a rafter so have to moved leaving you with a mess to patch up and paint.
@canefan said in Housing hornets' nest:
@jegga said in Housing hornets' nest:
I've noticed a lot of variation in the quality of heating system installation and some of the guys actually doing the work so do some homework before you spend your money. Stuff like scratched up and dented roofs , penetrations that cause leaks in cladding and cutting holes in the ceiling that hit a rafter so have to moved leaving you with a mess to patch up and paint.
Our house is plaster clad so I am very paranoid about people causing leaks from making unsealed holes. I'm not educated in what is good or bad though so who knows. I have a few tradies that I've used for some time, hopefully this helps
You're right to be concerned on a plaster house, ask your tradies who they recommend and then when you're getting prices ask how they intend to seal any penetrations. Unfortunately if their work is dodgy it won't show up for a while and then it will cost
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While we are all tapping @jegga for advice I have a question
I bought a 3 story place ( Ground, first floor and renovated attic) here in France. The first floor is all the original wooden floor, not sure if its oak or pine. But its straight over the joists and has no insulation in it. I was thinking of carpeting the first floor. At the moment with 3 boys under 5 its like a thunderstorm whenever they are up playing in their rooms.
Whats my best bet here rip up the old floor and replace with a subfloor. Or thin subfloor over the top and use blown in insulation? Here are my thoughts on the two different methods
If I rip it up then at the same time I could throw down some really good insulation to try and keep the ground floor a bit warmer and a bit quieter. But is probably a shit tonne of work.
If I lay a thin subfloor, I am not sure if blown in will be as good as proper bats insulation for sound. Plus after the subfloor I need an underlay and a carpet so I will probably need to trim all the doors to get them to close. Which is a real ball ache.
Housing hornets' nest